Identify the source of the problem is halfway solving it. In case the source of water moisture if flooding, or leakages then they will need to be addressed. At times, the buckling, warping, lifting, separating, and spongy feel maybe be due to lack of or inadequate expansion and contraction or shrinkage gap. Generally, the temperature and humidity changes make the laminate flooring boards expand and shrink.
There is a need to check the gap left to avoid the later occurrence of the same problem. The installer needs to leave a gap of mm and install expansion joints on your laminate floor. These expansion gaps can be left on door frames, water pipes near walls, and panels. For bigger rooms, you can put expansion joints in the middle of the room. Once you have fully addressed the laminate warping causes, remove the floor moulding or the laminate baseboards to get rid of pressure on the laminate flooring plank.
If the cause was an inadequate expansion joint, trim your laminate board to leave enough gap for expansion and shrinking. However, if the cause was poor installation method, you may be forced to hire a flooring profession to redo your floor and get rid of spongy feel, laminate lifting up, or even buckling. Consider appropriate underlayment for laminate floors. The sub-floor damage should also be checked to avoid spongy feel and squeak sounds as you walk on it. Sub-floor damage may also leave the permanent problem of the laminate floor moving up and down.
If the boards are still lifting up or buckling, add some weight on top to put pressure top and let it settle down as it dries up. At times the laminate board will be damaged beyond repair; consider getting a new one for the space left. Trim it appropriately to leave enough space for shrinkage and expansion. Get the same color shade to avoid having different shades on your flooring. But if the damage is severe, you have to replace the plank you did save a few from the installation, right?
It's a job you can do yourself in about two hours. Moisture and Laminate Flooring : The Basics The amount of moisture in the air can cause your laminate to change widths. This is caused by water or other liquid seeping into the laminate flooring joints, where the locking system connects. Damage like this can also be caused from too much humidity in the air. Before you use your new floor or move into the room, make sure the floor is completely cured. Do not walk on the floor for 24 hours after installation.
If you do, it will damage the installation, resulting in an uneven floor. The owner of the company came by today to do an inspection, and his answer was, "That's to be expected, these are floating floors. They'll never be perfect, and they should settle over time. Does laminate flooring buckle?
Category: style and fashion bath and shower. The laminate boards expand and contract, according to the humidity and temperature in the room.
However, if the laminate flooring is not installed properly or is exposed to moisture, it may buckle. How do I keep my laminate floor from buckling?
Why are my laminate floors are lifting? How do I keep my laminate floor from moving? How many years does laminate flooring last? Should floating floors move when walking on them? Floor Prep Problems. How do you fix a buckled floor? How to Repair Buckled Hardwood Flooring. First, take a piece of chalk or a grease pencil and draw a box around the entire damaged area. What happens if I don't acclimate laminate flooring? Will water under laminate dry out? Water Under Laminate Flooring.
Why is my laminate floor rising? What happens when wood laminate flooring gets wet? I had one guy start the job — one whole room and another finishished the rest of the house.
This house is not moisture free for sure. I will definitely get a second opinion. Thank goodness I found your website. Thanks for the knowledge. Oh yeah, he did mention gluing it down. Alexis, please do not let anybody sand your laminate flooring!!! The contractor is clearly oblivious to laminate flooring and how to repair it……DO NOT ever sand laminate flooring under any circumstance, you will destroy the flooring and there will be no going back afterwards.
Please call a local laminate flooring store that does installations and have them come out to give you an estimate for the repair. It is either an expansion gap issue or something is pinning your floor down and not allowing it to expand or contract.
Laminate flooring needs to have an expansion gap due to humidity and temperature causing the floor to naturally expand and contract. After you have that gap then you can replace all of your trim and moldings in the room. This will prevent your floor from buckling for the rest of the lifetime of the flooring. Margaret, the baseboards being too tight to the floor had nothing to do with your floor buckling.
There simply was not enough of an expansion gap around the perimeter of the room or there was either a finish nail or another object pinning down the floor somewhere which was causing it to buckle.
Have your installer check to see if there is anything pinning down the floor and not allowing it to move freely. Good Luck, Fred. Carina, sorry it took me so long to respond to your question, I was on vacation last week.
To address your concerns it seems that you have been very vigilant so far by taking apart a large section of the flooring and drying out as much moisture that was visible. Also the dehumidifier is a brilliant little appliance that will help to suck all of the excess moisture out of the room.
In my opinion I believe that you have done enough to stop the water from pooling underneath the floor where it can do the most damage and I think that after 24 hours of running the dehumidifier and letting everything dry out you should be fine.
Im sure that you are already finished because this happened nearly 2 weeks ago but at least other people can see what you have done and that will help them if they need good advice.
Thank you for your post. Does this sound right? He did ask if it was near the wall or in the middle. The buckling begins to the right of the entry from one room to another. It extends outward about 3 ft. I am describing this as best I can. I know absolutely nothing about laminate flooring. Good point Bennie! We are sorry to hear about your problems. Now, you have a chance to put your feedback on Angies list , so other people who will deal with your installer will know more about the quality of his work.
All the bast and thank you fro your opinion. I would ask people whom you have visited homes and as for a photo gallery of their work and the ability to call the person that the flooring was installed.
Had someone look at floor today and they said i should have someone remove molding and trim all sides of the room and the floor should flatten out. Do you think this would work. Had my laminate floors installed during cold weather.
This was done in the basement and used a gas fireplace constantly. Called the person who installed it and he said whoever put the baseboards back up put them to tight too tight to the floor and that the floors would straighten out if I had them removed and a gap left. I had that done now my floors are buckling in different places plus the previous areas.
He is coming back out this week to see what can be done to correct this problem. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. The sub-floor is concrete, I have a better quality steam barrier the one with the little Styrofoam balls that allow air circulation.
We immediately soaked up as much of the water as possible, removed the rug and started going under the laminate and steam barrier. At the moment we have the dehumidifier and fan going, we reached under the flooring and barrier further into the room to dry any moisture that might still be there with dry towels.
We reached about feet under the laminate and steam barrier at the border to where we had taken the laminate out, we also continued doing so reaching in underneath the floor until we could not feel any moisture anymore. Is there anything you would say we should do in addition to this?
The concrete flooring underneath the laminate that we left in seems to be dry, so does the laminate. Are there any tips as to what we should do next? Do you think we would need to rip out more flooring or should this be enough? We have advised our clients to disassemble the floor completely and seal the edges of the boards with a clear, siliconized acrylic caulk.
This will help to prevent any cracks or squeaks in the joints once that is done. You should also call your manufacturer to see if there was any quality control issues or if there was a recall issued for this problem for your flooring. You can also Google your floor and see if there are any other people who have had similar complaints and you can see if they heard of a recall for that product. The floor should not squeak or crackle once the expansion gap is corrected and once you seal the edges of the boards with the clear caulk.
Good Luck with this issue. Hi, we ostalled our 12 mm plank laminate this winter and with he increase in humidity recently the floor has expanded and it is touching the walls in a few areas and the plank are snapi g and crackling. My husband is going to fix this issue.
Will the snapping go away or is the whole floor ruined? You can try to use a dehumidifer it may help to keep the humidity down in the room but it will be costly to buy and keep it on.
It would be best if you paid a contractor to look at your installation and ask his opinion also. He may recommend to disassemble the floor and trim the edges of the boards around the perimeter so that you have the proper expansion gap. Joan, it does sound like water damage could be the culprit. Do you have any extra boards from your original installation? I would suggest to call the Better Business Bureau and file a complaint with them about the company who is ignoring you.
I would call a local contractor and have them come out to inspect the flooring. He should be able to figure out whats going on there. If you do have extra boards then he may be able to repair your flooring. Good luck, I hope that all goes well, Fred. And I have no floor molding down would that keep anything in place. I purchased laminate floors a year ago in my kitchen.
Less than 6 months after installation I noticed buckling of the floor, as well as warping. The installer is claiming excess moisture. We use a swiffer mop on it.
No excess moisture ever. Now, they are starting to warp all over the place, and the place where I purchased them from is ignoring my calls. Suggestion s? We recently installed a laminate floor in a large chapel sf and now the floor is severely buckling. I have read all your comments about leaving expansion gaps around the perimeter and I know that was done but now the flooring is tight against the baseboards.
We have 24 pews in the chapel and we did screw them into the subfloor for safety reasons. Is this what is causing the buckling? It is mostly down the center aisle where the worst buckling is happening. Is there a way to secure the pews that will not affect the laminate?
I have had two different companies to look at it since the original installer will not answer my calls. One said it needed to be trimmed around the baseboards. The other one said it needs to be removed and replaced with tile or carpet, that it will never be right because of the heavy pews. Could you please give me your opinion? Thank you so much. JH, I definitely see that there can be a problem if there is no expansion gap around the entire perimeter.
The larger the room the larger the expansion gap that you need to have to account for this. Unfortunately at this point I would recommend that you re-check your entire perimeter to see where the floor has no room to expand.
Once you mark all of the areas you will need to disconnect the flooring and trim down all of the boards that you had previously marked. Usually any room that is longer than 25 ft. After cutting the boards, carefully reinsert them back into their proper positions in your floor. You can send me a few pictures to fred bestlaminate.
I can better help you then. Thanks for your question, Fred. The floor will be higher but it is a very messy, labor intensive and expensive job to remove ceramic tile and level the floor afterwards if needed. It will be much harder for your contractor to remove the ceramic tile with the island in the way without possibly damaging it while trying to remove the tiles that are halfway pinned underneath the island.
That is why he recommends to remove the island if you want to tear out the old ceramic and I agree with that. However, if he does remove the island to remove the tiles make sure that the island is put back into place before installing the laminate because it will be too much weight on the laminate if it is installed on top and it will not allow your laminate floor to expand and contract correctly.
That can lead to possible problems with buckling and it will also void most warranties. You have a few decisions to make regarding installation of you floor, make sure that you take my advice into account and you will be fine.
Thank you for your question, Fred. I was told laminate floors would horizontally expand by its width, not length. Will you please provide some insights and advices? I would greatly appreicaite it, and thank you for your time. Dear Fred…first thank you for being there for all of us who are far from expert in these areas. I am planning to put a bamboo floor in a large kitchen, with a large island with the dishwasher and sink and quartz counter top. I currently have a tile floor.
I am leaning toward a floating floor with a top quality underlay. He told me it can be done, however he would also have to move the island to remove the tiles under it. That scares the heck out of me…very large island long with a right angle extension and the heaviness of the counter top.
Vanessa, it definately sounds like you have buckling due to a lack of an expansion gap. You would be surprised of how much a floor can expand under seemingly regular conditions. In order to prevent damage to the locks on the buckling boards, you will need to remove the quarter round, and baseboard if you have it, and look for an area where laminate is pressed against a wall or a nail by the wall which is not allowing the floor to expand.
Its not a big problem as long as you fix it right away before your boards become damaged. Fred- Over the holidays my father installed Pergo in two upstairs bedrooms.
This was the first time he had worked with Pergo. Everything seemed good when the project was finished the first week of January. But now I have severe buckling in the center of my bedroom in an open area.
The buckling is running along the long side of the board and what started off to be a small area of buckling has now expanded and more boards in that line of installation are now buckling.
I have spoken to my dad about it — he is out of state- and he believes it may be because he put some nails in an area along the baseboard before installing the quarter round. Based on what I have read above, sounds like that might be the issue but would appreciate your insight.
Gillian, as long as the flooring is installed according to the manufacturers instructions and you have left the proper expansion gap along the perimeter then you will have no problems with any of your board loosening.
Constant traffic is normal wear and tear on a laminate floor and it will not affect anything whatsoever. Hi Fred, I am slightly puzzled. I have installed my laminate, and have the beading ready to nail to skirting. Moisture is definately a possibility to cause bumps or swelling near the doors. Without seeing your floor in person I cannot tell you what is causing the problem. Good luck with you problem. I hope they can fix it soon for you.
I just spent a good deal of money to have a laminate floor installed with the highest grade of vapor barrier available. I live in florida and the flooring was laid on concrete slabs. Installers came back and told me it was moisture around the doors that was getting in.
I just had the door and window contractors over and they did moisture tests and say there is no way that much moisture is getting in and if I have a vapor barrier and no standing water it is not my doors. The floor guys want me to pay for oak thresh holds and edging so they can screw them into the concrete. I agree that the thresh holds were weak due to a poor manufacturing T- lock design that looks like it is made out of cardboard.
However, I am not so sure about the sliding doors with the edging. I also realize hot and cold concrete could have condensation so I was talked into highest grade vapor barrier.
Please Help! Tendai, after a wood floor starts to swell due to water damage it is unrepairable unless you remove and replace the damaged board s. Found 3 bedrooms afloat with water which seemed to have dripped from the ceiling. Gina, can you please be a little more specific about what kind of flooring that you have had installed and also can you send some pictures to me at ed bestlaminate.
I will be able to help you out a little better that way. David, laminate flooring is a great choice for flooring because of its ease of installation but if you are not careful when installing it can turn into a problem down the road.
If the boards are no longer fully locked together than you have no other choice than to disassemble your floor and start over again. There are many reasons that can cause the flooring to not stay locked together.
The board could have a damaged lock, there could be debris in the joints, the locks may have never fully been engaged, there could be a defective board, etc. Without seeing your flooring I cannot tell you what the issue would be.
Is there anything I can do to fix this other than replacing it? I just installed a 14mm thick floating laminate floor in our basement. I put down a vapor barrier as directed, though there is a seam across the middle of the floor—and the plastic sheeting was hardly crease-free as I had to displace many items across the room as I laid the floor—just difficult to put down a smooth sheet.
Trouble is this, there are many small gaps no bigger than 2mm in the floor between the wood slats. In fact, some even seem to lift slightly as if they are no longer locked. I was having some difficulty with the install as I came across instances where the boards fit together poorly. Is this because of a poor job of putting down the vapor barrier?
It has a lifetime warrenty. Although this was my first floating installation, I totally think it was straightforward and simple. I am afraid I will have to pull up most of the floor and start over. Thoughts and suggestions? Also what are these black blemishes that you are talking about. Can you send me a few pictures so I can better answer your question.
You can send the pictures to ed bestlaminate. I have a bamboo floor about 4 years it was perfect a peice in the doorway starting making a clicking sound and then lifting I had I guy come and he replaced 4 peices instead I returned to see a perfect floor completely buckled in hours he is saying it was the water table I have never had water.
The floor is dry everywhere and a I noticed black blemishes where the boards meet looks like bruising or pressure marks they are straight shadow lines. I am so mad I want a answer. Mike, I would never recommend to nail down a floating laminate floor. The only time it would be ok to nail or glue down laminate is if you are putting it on a set of steps.
If you are having problems locking the laminate together I would either call an installer with experience that can install the floor or return the material if it is found to be defective. Would it hurt to use a nail gun and put a 45 degree finishing nail threw the joint to help hold the seem together? Stella, I need to know more about the laminate that you have installed.
Normally you cannot pull up any tiles because they are all interlocked together. As for you subfloor being wet, it appears that you have a leak of some sort that you need to find and stop before the problem gets worse.
Also laminate should never get a divet from a microwave cart. Hi, I rent and when we moved in we had to have the kitchen floor replaced due to a pipe leak.
Tiles were popping up and creating ridged bumps. We are now getting cracked and ridged bumps again on our laminate tiles in one area. The microwave cart is causing divets in the tiles. One tile can be pulled up and sub floor appears to be wet This area is nowhere near any source of water. Fridge is next to this and then stove those tiles are not effected.
Why am I getting this issue? There are some gaps in tiles near kitchen also. Laurie, It sounds as if you have a bad situation on your hands. If there is suspected moisture coming from under your floor then the first thing you need to do is take apart part of your floor to check if there is excessive moisture underneath. Unfortunately if there has been long term moisture exposure to the underside of your flooring some of it may be ruined.
Once again without taking up the floor there is no way to tell if there is mold growth or moisture damage. You can call a mold company to come and take samples from your home to check for mold spores but I dont know how much that would cost. Charlotte, is your granddaughters bedroom floor a laminate floor? Most laminate flooring is very resistant to stains and fading from UV rays, heat and household chemicals.
I would try to use a solution of vinegar and water with 1 part vinegar to 10 parts water to try to clean the stain. Use a damp mop or a damp wash cloth with the vinegar water solution. If that doesnt work then try to wipe acetone on the stain with a clean cloth.
Do not scrub the floor with anything that is very abrasive and do not saturate the floor with a lot of water. Doing those things can cause further damage to your floor. I hope that this helps. I set a vaporizer on my granddaughters bedroom floor and it left a big white area.
How can I get this off? He mentioned about a month ago that he was hearing a dripping noise, thought it might be the AC unit. Last week he said that my brand new laminate floors seem to be buckling a little in my hallway.
Today the AC repairman came and said that I had a leak and needed freon — he also said once the freon was done there would be no more leak still not sure I understand that part. Turns out the laminate flooring and, apparently, some of my bedroom which still has carpet are showing signs of moisture underneath. I am on a very strict budget as I am disabled and am so concerned about what the best thing to do is.
I live in the deep South so the possibility of mold is certainly there. Thanks so much! Sue, it sounds like moisture is a strong possibility as the cause of your flooring problem. Moisture could have found its way under your floor somehow and settled underneath the floor. A few possible ways that could happen are: a leaking water pipe, a leaking ice maker line or spilled water that gets in beetween the seams of the flooring and finds its way underneath the floor.
Without seeing what you are dealing with I would call a professional flooring company to come out and do a moisture test on your floor to find out if that is the culprit. Our kitchen laminate flooring has been laid for some years without any problems. Recently we noticed a lump appearing and assummed that water had been spilt as it was along one of the joins, however another lump appeared along the next join and now a third in the next join.
Are you able to shed any light on this problem, please? Any advice would be very much appreciated. Liz, the installer should have installed a T-Molding to seperate the rooms, especially when the overall length of the floor exceeds 20 ft. If the floor is coming apart at the seams then there could be damage to the locking system or the floor was never properly connected to begin with.
I would not recommend that you try to patch the floor with any type of floor patch at the seperating seams. You can try to use the floor patch kit on nicks, gouges and scratches only. For the areas where the seams are seperating you will need to have a contractor disconnect the flooring from the end point to the area where the planks are seperated and reinstall the room until all planks are firmly locked together and there are no gaps.
Without seeing what you are dealing with, I would recommend that you call over a contractor that has experience in laminate flooring installation to look at your floor and fix it. It might not cost as much as you would think. A competant flooring installer should be able to fix your floor within a few hours. Also you were right to install the quarter round to the baseboard. Good Luck with your problem, I hope that everything goes well. There are numerous places where the floor seams have opened up, just slightly, no buckling or anything, but overall, the job was done poorly.
My daughter cannot afford to replace this and I want to help her get the floor she deserves and paid for!
Can I use the Kampel floor patch stuff to patch the small separations? Of course that is becoming a place that is getting chipped as they walk on it. Due to my diligence and eagel eye, there is plenty of expansion space and the quarter round I put down to finish is glues ot the baseboard, not the floor as my brother isnisted I do.
Any ideas would be welcome, at this point. The reason for that is because due to humidity moisture and temperature the floor can expand and contract.
Tell your installer to check all expansion gaps and modify accordingly to make the proper expansion gaps. It was always quite spongy — the installer put it down on 8mm fibreglass underlay — but it was ok until earlier this year when the middle of the floor became very spongy and moved downwards visibly when trodden upon.
He used a specialist saw to remove about 8 mm from the wood and the floor immediately settled down again. However, now — about 5 months on — the middle of the floor is spongy again.
The majority — though not quite all — of the gap that he cut out has now closed up. Last time he tried to suggest that it is normal to expect a floating wooden floor to move in this way. Thank you in advance! After pulling off all my baseboards to make sure there was enough room around the edges for expansion, I found my problem in the transitional molding, where my living room meets my kitchen.
The screws that hold the bracket into the piece of laminate were too long and tightened into the plywood below… thus preventing expansion in that particular area. A quick switch of screws and my floor flattened right out. Andrew, First, I am very sorry to hear that you are having these problems with your flooring. Excessive moisture in your concrete subfloor over time will eventually cause problems to develop in your laminate floor.
If you have bad drainage problems during rain storms or if your subfloor is below ground level those are a few examples of what can cause excessive moisture to build up in your subfloor. Your floor eventualy will start to swell from the constant moisture exposure. Moisture padding is a a great deterrent however some of them are not as good as others at preventing larger amounts of moisture from passing through them as condensation.
If you decide to replace your laminate flooring again make sure that you go with a premium moisture padding and check the moisture rating on them if the information is available. Cliff, It is recommended to put a T-Molding in doorways beetween rooms specifically to prevent buckling.
Each room needs to be its own seperate floating floor. Mindy, A few years back I had a customer with the same exact issue. The flooring company is correct. The water was trapped beetween the vinyl and your laminate and had nowhere to go except up into your laminate flooring which caused it to warp and buckle.
A sheet vinyl floor is waterproof so unless there were large holes in the vinyl no water would get underneath your floor. Once the vinyl floor has completely dried it is then safe to reinstall your laminate flooring. I waited 2 days until I reinstalled the laminate for my customer and there have been no further issues.
The key is to make sure that the viny is completely dry before reinstallation. We had a laminate floor installed in January in our kitchen. Now it is severly buckling. The contractor that put it in said he left a sufficient gap and put in a moistrure protector.
The slab was dry at the time of installation. We had a plumber come who did a thorough inspection and he found no leaks or evidence of excessive moisture. I am at a loss for how the moisture could have entered the floor.
Is that really high or is it something that could result from something like background humidity? Any advice would be appreciated greatly. The plumbling behind my refrigerator ice-maker was leaking. He shut off the water, and then I had a plumber come and put in a new valve which got the plumbing straight. I called my insurance company, and their adjuster came out and did an estimate, and they sent me a check.
They pulled up the laminate and said I am lucky; the water was trapped between the vinyl and laminate. The removed the laminate but left the old vinyl. And they said it just needs a couple of days to dry out. I still wonder whether the subflooring is damaged, because there are areas where the floor is lower in places.
Should I get a contractor over to take another look and see if my subfloor is really okay? They flooring company was going to go ahead and order my new laminate. Thanks in advance for your advice. Should I leave a space and transition piece at doorway between two rooms? It looks to flow from one room to another but it seem to work. This room gets a lot of hot sun in the summer. Samantha, unfortunately there is not a safe or efficient way to cut the laminate flooring when it is that close to the baseboard or doorjambs.
The only way that you can fix your laminate is if you take it apart and cut the boards once they are removed from your floor. If you do not want to pay a contractor to repair the floor than you might be able to do the repair yourself. Laminate flooring is a great flooring choice because it is fairly easy to disassemble, make a repair, and reassemble once the repair is complete. What type of saw would be able to cut the laminate from around the baseboards and doorjams. Is there a special saw that would need to be purchased to do this?
The reason for that is it seperates each room into its own floating floor and that allows each individual room to expand, contract, and shift by itself without bothering the other floors in the home.
Buckling of the floor can occur In some cases you could get away without putting a T-Molding in a doorway. If you are doing a small installation you would probably be fine going from room to room without a T-Molding. However if you have a medium to large installation and you are going from room to room through a standard doorway you should install a T-Molding in the doorway.
Robert, it sounds as if the previous installer did not leave the proper expansion gaps around your cabinets and it is now giving you problems with buckling. You can use a jigsaw or a table saw to make those cuts and it will be a lot safer to cut the boards when they are removed rather than try to jam a tool under your cabinets to try to cut out the gap.
If you do not have the capability to accomplish this task then look for a certified laminate flooring installer in your area that would be able to fix this problem for you. Good luck Robert. I purchased the home with knowing it was their,but at the price cant say no.
I tried a dremel no good! Any suggestions? You can buy pool table coasters online. You can also buy them on Amazon. Do you have a name of these coasters or can tell me where online I can see them or purchase them. Try BBB listed laminate flooring installers.
Select installers with best BBB reputation. You can ask for references and call their customers. Another good source to find good laminate floorig installers will be ANGIES list — this is reputable place to find out solid recommendations. I fear my floor is buckling because of moisture from water spilled and not mopped up in time near my sofa.
I have extra planks in storage. Transition from laminate flooring plank to plank should be smooth. Should there be duifference where you can feel where the boards meet at the ends. What does that mean? Your email address will not be published. We hope to make your home remodeling and maintaining a more positive experience. Vanessa November 2, at am. Tinker October 26, at pm.
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