This is because such a combination gives a bad angle for the chain — and can be a big cause for loss of efficiency in the drivetrain. You should be going down into the lower chainring. When threaded through the rear derailleur, the chain should be workable in all the gear combinations that you are likely to use. The chain should be tight, without putting too much pressure on the rear derailleur.
If the rear derailleur is pulled so it is almost vertical pointing down, this is a sign the chain is too short. With this chain length, if you had to shorten chain on a ride because it snapped you could ride on it. Once you have the correct chain length, you can just use that chain length to copy any new chain you put on. A worn cassette, teeth have become a bit pointed.
If you put a new chain on this cassette. The chain would slip. It depends whether you want the hassle of a slipping chain for a short while. The worn chainring is on the top. The teeth look like Shark fins. They are more pointed. The new chain rings is behind and the teeth are more rounded. Chain rings generally survive longer than cassettes. Even if you need to change chain and rear cassette, it may be fine to keep your existing chain-rings.
It is not always easy to know whether chain rings and cassettes need changing. I often end up looking at different bikes and trying to compare the shape of the cassette teeth. Personally, I often find it difficult to spot a mildly worn cassette. I have about cassettes lying around my garage in a state of partial wear.
Not being used, but not being thrown away…. This is really useful thanks. Good tips. Modern mountain bikes with dual chain rings have changed the game slightly. Chain a KMC X 10 worn and changed at same time.
Worked perfectly. I was however surprised to find the 24 ring work perfectly bur VERY noisy — not jumping just very noisy. After a hard 56km ride dry hard pack rocky dusty with river crossings thrown in for good measure noticed slight slippage in 38 chain maybe cassette wear maybe just as new lube washed off in rivers? Only time will tell…. Tejvan, you just saved me a casette that I was going to chuck in the bin because it was slightly slipping.
I let the chain bed in and the casette works fine now. It just took a light 40k ride. Can a bike go from being perfectly ok to being un-rideable within a day and a half because of a worn chain? If so, how likely is this to happen?
Sounds unlikely to me. It is a very gradual wear. Also the chain wears with cassette. If you put on new cassete or new chain, you may notice a lot more. Changing Chain A worn chain gives risk of lost power transfer and also wearing your rear cassette more quickly.
Optimal changes of chain can: Save money in particular prolong life of cassettes Protect power transfer of drivetrain — lose less power to stretched chains and bigger gaps in cassette teeth.
How to check whether chain needs changing. Finger test A simple test is to use your finger and try to lift the chain away from the chainring. If the chain can be pushed quite a bit away from the chainring like above , this is a sign that the chain needs changing.
For this test, I put it biggest gear biggest front chain ring, smallest rear cassette, e. Chain measuring tool You can also buy a chain measuring tool which will tell you how worn a chain is. Measure with rule Put a tape measure a the centre of a chain pin. Efficiency of chains Note: I would prefer to replace with a cheaper chain e. Chain on my commuting bike This is my chain on my commuting bike. Despite frequent spraying, it has rust.
Chain length Take a new chain and put it in the largest front chainring e. Then put it on the largest cassette sprocket at the back, nearest wheel. This range of gears will affect the way you pedal and allow you to shift to new gears, depending on the type of bike that you ride.
The bike cassettes have sprockets that come in varying sizes, with the larger sprockets having more teeth. Most often, the larger sprockets will equal an easier higher gear, which reduces the overall torque on your back wheel. On the other hand, a lower number of sprocket teeth will equal a harder pedal lower gear , but you will need to pedal less frequently. TIP : Make sure that you choose the right cassettes for your bike when you are replacing them. As mentioned, you will want to replace your bike cassette at least once every three years, even if you are not riding super regularly.
However, if you are riding your bike a high mileage each year, you will want to change the cassette each season. TIP: If you are changing your chain as needed and caring for your bike properly, your cassette will often last longer.
If the chain jumps and slips on any cogs, replace the cassette. Then replace the chain more often to give the new cogs maximum life. Putting on a new chain whenever there is any measurable stretch is cheap drivetrain insurance and makes for a happy cassette.
I ride Campagnolo 3 bikes, 9, 10, and speed. Clean and check the chain frequently, and chances are you will never need to replace the cogs! My cassette lasts a long time. The advice of the LBS is not actually bad. There is nothing worse than putting on a new chain and having to go back because the cassette is worn too. Plus it is dangerous. Having said that I check chain wear probably once a month and try to change before the wear gets too bad 0. I use a Park cc-2 chain checker. I use Rock-n-Roll Extrame lube, keep my Shimano Ultegra chains fairly clean and they are usually ready to be replaced at the 3,, miles or so.
I have three road bikes, average around 5, miles each year and knock wood have never had to replace a cassette. A ruler is a more reliable chain checker than most of the specific tools on the market. And while a worn elongated chain will indeed wear a cassette faster, the cassette will still wear even with frequently replaced chains.
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